Author Topic: Building a new computer  (Read 1581 times)

Offline MalusSciurus

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Building a new computer
« on: August 12, 2012, 08:40:45 AM »
Hey everyone! So I sorta need help with building a new gaming computer.  I want to future proof it by still being able to play games within a 4-5 year lifespan period from now at max to medium settings.  Also my budget is pretty generous but I'd rather not shell out more than $3500 if possible. So here goes....

CPU: Intel Core i7-3930K          
$569.99
CPU Fan:  Not sure which one to get....

Mobo: ASUS Sabertooth X79 LGA 2011          
$319.99
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 16GB (4 x 4GB)  X 2             
$299.98 ($149.99 each)
GFX Cards: EVGA 04G-P4-3685-KR GeForce GTX 680 FTW X 2 in SLI                   
$1,159.98 ($579.99 each)
SSDs: SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC256D/AM 2.5" 256GB X 2 striped             
$779.98 ($389.99 each)
may get the 128GBs X 4 for awesomeness but maybe too expensive

HHDs: Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s X 2
$179.98 ($89.99 each)
  I'll probably swap this out for something else but not sure with what

PSU: XFX ProSeries P1-1000-BELX 1000W ATX12V V2.2
$228.99
  again not sure about this one but I do like the modular cables

BluRay Player: ASUS Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM
$49.99
Case: Not sure what to get... Any recomendations?

OS: Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium (OEM)
$99.99

So far it ends up being...
$3,688.87

Well... looks like I went over budget... Can you guys help me out on pruning some unneeded stuff?
« Last Edit: August 14, 2012, 05:47:24 AM by Southrop »

Offline vuzedome

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Re: Re: Build Your Computer
« Reply #1 on: August 12, 2012, 09:23:49 AM »
Lose one of the 680 and you'll do fine, SLI is silly and I bet many of the regulars here will tell you so too.
After that go grab one of the silly high end sound cards from ASUS or Creative and you're budget will fit just right.
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Offline Saras

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Re: Re: Build Your Computer
« Reply #2 on: August 12, 2012, 10:22:09 AM »
Hey everyone! So I sorta need help with building a new gaming computer.  I want to future proof it by still being able to play games within a 4-5 year lifespan period from now at max to medium settings.  Also my budget is pretty generous but I'd rather not shell out more than $3500 if possible. So here goes....

CPU: Intel Core i7-3930K          
$569.99
CPU Fan:  Not sure which one to get....

Mobo: ASUS Sabertooth X79 LGA 2011          
$319.99
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 16GB (4 x 4GB)  X 2             
$299.98 ($149.99 each)
GFX Cards: EVGA 04G-P4-3685-KR GeForce GTX 680 FTW X 2 in SLI                   
$1,159.98 ($579.99 each)
SSDs: SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC256D/AM 2.5" 256GB X 2 striped             
$779.98 ($389.99 each)
may get the 128GBs X 4 for awesomeness but maybe too expensive

HHDs: Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s X 2
$179.98 ($89.99 each)
  I'll probably swap this out for something else but not sure with what

PSU: XFX ProSeries P1-1000-BELX 1000W ATX12V V2.2
$228.99
  again not sure about this one but I do like the modular cables

BluRay Player: ASUS Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM
$49.99
Case: Not sure what to get... Any recomendations?

OS: Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium (OEM)
$99.99

So far it ends up being...
$3,688.87

Well... looks like I went over budget... Can you guys help me out on pruning some unneeded stuff?

There is absolutely no point in stripping SSDs. Just get a simple 256gig one. Hardware striped SSDs do not support trim and neither will you feel any difference from them.

There is absolutely no point in getting a 1000W PSU either.

If you want to future proof the system. Get a GTX 670 now and then get a GTX 970 in three years time from the money you have left over.

Sorry, but what you suggested is basically a means to waste money left and right, the cost/performance ratio is abysmal.

Offline kureshii

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Re: Re: Build Your Computer
« Reply #3 on: August 12, 2012, 11:01:58 AM »
Hey everyone! So I sorta need help with building a new gaming computer.  I want to future proof it by still being able to play games within a 4-5 year lifespan period from now at max to medium settings.  Also my budget is pretty generous but I'd rather not shell out more than $3500 if possible. So here goes....

(click to show/hide)

It looks like you've either never really put a gaming rig together and used it for some period of time, or you're just trolling. Or maybe you just have a warped sense of future-proofing.

But I'll bite anyway. If I had 3.5k quid and wanted a reasonable gaming build to last 5 years and beyond, I wouldn't spend more than 2k on the initial rig. And I'd put 1.5k aside for future itches and required upgrades.

If you're actually serious about this request, forget everything you've heard about gaming builds. Go read some buyers' guides, get a sense of what a gaming build is really like, and not what a PC would look like if you bundled all the cool but stupid things you saw on Youtube into a PC case. Don't follow the guides to the letter; that one is written in 2011, before Ivy Bridge CPUs were released. Just get a sense for what kind of parts are used. Do you see recommendations for overpriced graphics cards in SLI? Or quad striped SSDs? Or hex-core CPUs for gaming?

Are your feet on the ground yet? Good. Now throw out that build and start over again. No point in us throwing out advice here while your head is still in the clouds.
« Last Edit: August 12, 2012, 11:15:04 AM by kureshii »

Offline Tephnos

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Re: Re: Build Your Computer
« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2012, 11:04:52 AM »
Don't buy two 680s. Just don't. And don't even buy a single 680, get the 670 instead. You get a 5% performance increase for a hundred more bucks by buying a 680, waste of money.

A 1000W PSU isn't needed either, you won't be close to using that much power.


Offline MalusSciurus

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Re: Re: Build Your Computer
« Reply #5 on: August 13, 2012, 06:06:08 AM »

It looks like you've either never really put a gaming rig together and used it for some period of time, or you're just trolling. Or maybe you just have a warped sense of future-proofing.

But I'll bite anyway. If I had 3.5k quid and wanted a reasonable gaming build to last 5 years and beyond, I wouldn't spend more than 2k on the initial rig. And I'd put 1.5k aside for future itches and required upgrades.

If you're actually serious about this request, forget everything you've heard about gaming builds. Go read some buyers' guides, get a sense of what a gaming build is really like, and not what a PC would look like if you bundled all the cool but stupid things you saw on Youtube into a PC case. Don't follow the guides to the letter; that one is written in 2011, before Ivy Bridge CPUs were released. Just get a sense for what kind of parts are used. Do you see recommendations for overpriced graphics cards in SLI? Or quad striped SSDs? Or hex-core CPUs for gaming?

Are your feet on the ground yet? Good. Now throw out that build and start over again. No point in us throwing out advice here while your head is still in the clouds.

Yeah when I was formatting my post and pasting all prices for the stuff from Newegg I felt a bit dumbfounded at how my existing rig (Q6600, 8800gt sli, 500gb seagate 7200rpm + 1.5TB) cost less 5 years ago (with adjustment of inflation ~ $2000) compared to the "dream" machine I have in mind.  I was just thinking that I'm at a time in my life where I can afford to splurge a bit and get something nice.  Also I tend to go all out in designing stuff and forget about practicality (Do I render and encode videos? nope....)

Soooooo moving forward how's this?

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K
$339.99
Mobo: ASUS P8Z77-V PRO
$214.99
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 16GB (4 x 4GB)
$149.99
GFX Card: EVGA 04G-P4-3685-KR GeForce GTX 680 FTW
$579.99
SSD: SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC256D/AM 2.5" 256GB
$389.99
HHDs: Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s    
$179.98 ($89.99 each)
PSU: XFX ProSeries P1-1000-BELX 1000W ATX12V V2.2
$228.99

BluRay Player: ASUS Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM
$49.99
Case: Antec Nine Hundred
$96.99
OS: Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium (OEM)
$99.99


So it should end up being....
$2,330.89

I guess that's a bit of improvement?  I was thinking of keeping the PSU for future SLI when my rig gets 3 years old and additional drives.  Oh I was thinking of swapping the SSD with this one.  Is the Samsung worth the price difference?

Offline Saras

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Re: Re: Build Your Computer
« Reply #6 on: August 13, 2012, 09:42:17 AM »

It looks like you've either never really put a gaming rig together and used it for some period of time, or you're just trolling. Or maybe you just have a warped sense of future-proofing.

But I'll bite anyway. If I had 3.5k quid and wanted a reasonable gaming build to last 5 years and beyond, I wouldn't spend more than 2k on the initial rig. And I'd put 1.5k aside for future itches and required upgrades.

If you're actually serious about this request, forget everything you've heard about gaming builds. Go read some buyers' guides, get a sense of what a gaming build is really like, and not what a PC would look like if you bundled all the cool but stupid things you saw on Youtube into a PC case. Don't follow the guides to the letter; that one is written in 2011, before Ivy Bridge CPUs were released. Just get a sense for what kind of parts are used. Do you see recommendations for overpriced graphics cards in SLI? Or quad striped SSDs? Or hex-core CPUs for gaming?

Are your feet on the ground yet? Good. Now throw out that build and start over again. No point in us throwing out advice here while your head is still in the clouds.

Yeah when I was formatting my post and pasting all prices for the stuff from Newegg I felt a bit dumbfounded at how my existing rig (Q6600, 8800gt sli, 500gb seagate 7200rpm + 1.5TB) cost less 5 years ago (with adjustment of inflation ~ $2000) compared to the "dream" machine I have in mind.  I was just thinking that I'm at a time in my life where I can afford to splurge a bit and get something nice.  Also I tend to go all out in designing stuff and forget about practicality (Do I render and encode videos? nope....)

Soooooo moving forward how's this?

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K
$339.99
Mobo: ASUS P8Z77-V PRO
$214.99
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 16GB (4 x 4GB)
$149.99
GFX Card: EVGA 04G-P4-3685-KR GeForce GTX 680 FTW
$579.99
SSD: SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC256D/AM 2.5" 256GB
$389.99
HHDs: Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s    
$179.98 ($89.99 each)
PSU: XFX ProSeries P1-1000-BELX 1000W ATX12V V2.2
$228.99

BluRay Player: ASUS Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM
$49.99
Case: Antec Nine Hundred
$96.99
OS: Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium (OEM)
$99.99


So it should end up being....
$2,330.89

I guess that's a bit of improvement?  I was thinking of keeping the PSU for future SLI when my rig gets 3 years old and additional drives.  Oh I was thinking of swapping the SSD with this one.  Is the Samsung worth the price difference?

You are a gamer. Games do not benefit from HT, there's no point in going for an i7. You WILL not feel any difference in games. Go for the i5-3570k if you do not intend to overclock and i5-2500k if you do, as Ivy Bridge's 3d transistors have heat issues when OC'ing.

There is nothing in the market at the moment, that you couldn't play maxed out on a GTX670 in a 2500x1600 resolution. The GTX680 is only slightly better (<10%) than the GTX670. You do not get your moneys worth for that extra 150$

The power supply is stupid. Get a corsair HX750 if you want to OC and to use SLI in the future or a TX650 otherwise for what you have now. At the moment, what concerns power supply choices, you're basically throwing money down the drain. This is not 2004, a 1000W PSU would only be needed if you intended to run two computers of it, or like 4 680's. Normal day to day computers and even mainstream gaming PC's don't really need >550Ws nowadays.

The vertex 4 is a good SSD, whether the price difference for the Samsung is worth it only depends on you.
« Last Edit: August 13, 2012, 09:47:06 AM by Saras »

Offline vuzedome

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Re: Re: Build Your Computer
« Reply #7 on: August 13, 2012, 09:55:21 AM »
Let the fella have the 680 and i7, it's for gamers bragging rights, since obviously budget is not really a problem.
But please, please, for your own sake, do not SLI anything.
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Offline Tephnos

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Re: Re: Build Your Computer
« Reply #8 on: August 13, 2012, 11:54:13 AM »
It's just stupid buying a 680 now, with that extra price tag and the fact that it won't be long until the 7xx series shows up. Considering Nvidia considers the 680 a mid range card - yeah.

Offline kureshii

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Re: Re: Build Your Computer
« Reply #9 on: August 13, 2012, 02:26:45 PM »
An i5 would make a more value-for-money gaming CPU, especially if you don't do much encoding/rendering.

You don't need a 1000W PSU, really.


Source: Anandtech


Source: Legitreviews

With a single GTX680, Anandtech's test system doesn't even use more than 350W of power. And Legitreview's test 680 SLI system doesn't draw over 600W either. Although XFX's PSU OEM is Seasonic, which means that PSU is at least a good one, it's overpriced for what you're trying to accomplish. Give Corsair's TX850M a try. It's modular as well, and can readily handle GTX680 even in SLI.

As for its "future compatibility", you don't really have to worry. If you noticed from the above trends, graphics cards don't use more and power power with each generation (excluding some anomalies). If anything, the Radeon cards have been on a sort of downward trend (a good thing!) when it comes to power consumption. Same pattern with Intel CPUs.

Not that you actually need GTX680 performance at that price, and even if you still insist on a 680, don't pay for the FTW premium. It's not worth it for a few percent extra FPS. Have a look at the Radeon 7950 or GTX670 instead? The 7950 just got a price cut this summer and should be available at ~$350 or so, while 670 should run you around $400 (I haven't checked latest prices).

They won't be as fast as a GTX680, but that's what you're saving money for — getting another card for CFX/SLI in another 2–3 years if needed (and those same cards will be even cheaper then!) Or get whichever the upper-mid-range card happens to be in 2–3 years. In either case you get more consistent gaming performance over your supposed 5-year gaming period, rather than a GPU setup that works really well at the start but only deteriorates in relative performance over time. And it won't cost you very much more than what you're paying for that overclocked GTX680.

Regarding SSDs, the Samsung 830 was a great performer when it was released late last year. But since then we've seen some new SSDs (Vertex 4) and many price cuts (Crucial M4); it's hard to justify the 830's performance at that price now. Give the Vertex 4 and Crucial M4 a look? At below $200 for the same capacity, there's really no reason not to if you haven't.
« Last Edit: August 13, 2012, 02:49:03 PM by kureshii »

Offline Freedom Kira

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Re: Re: Build Your Computer
« Reply #10 on: August 13, 2012, 07:40:11 PM »
By the way, your price on that Samsung SSD doesn't seem to be right... These days you can get SSDs reaching 500GB at that price. Clicked your link and it's nowhere near that price.

Why are you getting two 1TB drives? Are you planning to RAID them? If not, a single 2TB drive would be cheaper and use less power. And it's HDD for Hard Disk Drive, dammit.
Be sure to read reviews extensively before you pick a disk. Seagate's stuff has been on and off lately.

16GB of RipJaws goes for $150? I got 32GB Ares for around $200. Double the RAM for 33% higher price? Up to you.

And on OC and HT, take Saras's advice, except don't get a K processor at all if you're not gonna overclock. K processors are better to overclock with but they sacrifice some other features IIRC (such as virtualization), meaning if you don't overclock it's a pointless sacrifice. I'm not 100% sure that they still have this tradeoff in Ivy Bridge though.

On the CPU, LGA1155 is a soon-to-be dead socket. Which isn't all that bad, since Intel's sockets only last two years each anyway, but it's going to be obsolete in about half a year, superseded by LGA1150 I believe. Good choice switching away from 2011 though, that socket is not meant for gaming. In any case, if you plan to build it immediately, go for it. If you're not building until maybe March or April, it's probably better to wait and see what comes out next year.

Finally, Kureshii gives some of the best advice around here. Be sure to read carefully.

Offline MalusSciurus

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Re: Re: Build Your Computer
« Reply #11 on: August 13, 2012, 11:34:45 PM »
Cool thanks for the help everyone!  Yeah I think I may have pasted incorrectly for the SSD price of the Samsung 830 so instead of that $300 price range I think it's only $220 now.  I'm probably going to get the Samsung one anyways because i'd rather pay more for reliability than to be a guinea pig for OCZ.

As for the HDDs I am thinking of raiding them but haven't really had the time to properly look into which brand/size to get so the ones I listed are sort of placeholders.

And Kureshii thanks for the graphs!  I'll definitely take my time and go over that stuff! I'll also change out my PSU for something smaller

Offline kureshii

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Re: Re: Build Your Computer
« Reply #12 on: August 14, 2012, 03:25:04 AM »
Just to clarify, The GTX680 is not a bad graphics card. I'm just against paying for the "brand premium" that comes with FTW-labelled products, when the normal GTX680 runs around $500 or so. But we are still in mid-August, and the GTX680 is the top-end, (one of the) newest graphics card around. That means you're also forking out quite a bit for bragging rights: new + top-end stuff is always released at exorbitant prices, before getting heavily slashed once the next new thing comes out.

If that's something you're willing to pay for, go ahead and buy it. Just be aware of where your money's going; not all of it's for pure graphics performance. (I know I tend to overspend on more efficient PSUs and ITX boards myself.)

CPU Cooler
Have you picked a CPU cooler yet? If not, may I suggest the humble Hyper212 Evo for a start. Cooler Master may not be known for making the top-end stuff, but they know what value for money means. The original Hyper212 was quite highly reputed, and the Evo is another evolutionary step in the Hyper212 series. If you're not overclocking, you can't go wrong with this one.

Case
There's still $1.5k left over, isn't there? It's a pretty tempting sum of money to spend, I know, and I probably can't (and won't) stop you spending it. But before you throw it into a bunch more HDDs/SSDs or SLI, let's talk upmarket.

For starters, the Antec Nine Hundred. It's a good case, has got plenty of good reviews, and it's great value for money. But it's a dated design, and that shows quite clearly when you're trying to build in it. I'm not saying it's bad just because it's out of fashion. I'm saying the newer cases that are released have HDD caddies (hard drive trays) that make installing drives much easier, and they often have more options for cable management as well, in addition to many other little things that make PC assembly much more enjoyable.

In the below-$200 range, let's start with the Silverstone Raven RV02. The most interesting thing with the RV series is probably with the way the motherboard is mounted with the ports facing up. While the cooling advantage a bottom-to-top airflow provides is somewhat questionable, the RV02's build quality isn't. Its successor, the RV03, is slightly cheaper, although Bit-tech reviews say it has less focus on cooling than the RV02 (still excellent performance though).

Personally, I'm quite biased toward black monolithic designs. Big black tower? Booooooring for most people I bet; sorry, I'm just not very attracted to bright colours splashed on a case! Give me a sleek, black aluminium tower any time. If you like stealthed designs, the Fractal Define XL might be right up your alley. The design is focused on silence; you'll find noise-absorbing material on the side panels, and a front door that minimises noise from the intake fans. There is also space for 10 HDDs too, if you'll ever be using that many.

Tickled yet? Try the Corsair Obsidian 650D then. Really nice cable routing options, tool-free optical drive assembly, SATA hotswap bay at the top, flexible HDD options, and a sleek brushed aluminium front panel.

If the aluminium's to your liking, why not go full aluminium surface then? There's a 30% promo offer going on the Lian-Li PC-A70, making it a real value buy. Inside, it's a lot more spartan than the other mentioned cases, but one thing it's definitely not lacking is space.

Bitten by the aluminium bug yet? Ready to go further upmarket, to above $200? I must start to sound like a terrible, boring salesperson by now, so I'll just drop a couple more names here. Lian-Li Z60. Corsair Obsidian 800D (case body is SECC steel). There're still many more to scratch your aluminium itch; I'd recommend you look up more reviews before putting down the money.

Keyboard
Chances are, you're probably using a rubber dome keyboard. If you've ever disassembled keyboards, you'll have noticed a moulded silicone sheet or individual rubber domes where the keys are. These domes, when depressed, press two sheets of traces together to create electrical contact. It's a cheap system that works decently for the most part, but better solutions exist.


Cherry G80 keyboard with keycaps removed, showing MX Red switches below.

At one point, keyboards were engineered with each key having its own switch. This technology is superior to what we have in the budget market currently; each keypress closes a circuit to register a keypress (vs squeezing two contact sheets by force in rubber dome keyboards), and the switches can provide excellent tactile feedback. The only problem is with cost; unsurprisingly, manufacturing a keyboard with each key having its own switch is expensive.

But recently, mechanical keyboards are becoming trendy again. That means more and more brands are offering mechanical keyboards, which means more competition, which means ... lower prices! If you have the chance, I recommend you try them out in a retail store, if they carry stock. You'll find it hard to go back to rubber domes after that.

Newegg does carry them, if you're ready to jump anyway. The Rosewill RK9000 starts at a cool $100 and comes with a variety of switch options. If you're a twitch gamer, I'd suggest going with red or black switches—the red switches are lighter than the black ones. If you do more typing than gaming, try the blue/brown switches. The blues have a really crisp tactile response (a.k.a. the "klack-klack" feel and sound); the browns are more muted.

Audio
What about sound? Perhaps you might find that onboard sound is more than sufficient for you, but while you're on a sizeable budget, who not take the chance to explore something a little higher-end?

The Asus Xonar DGX is going for $40 on Newegg, and is a worthy budget buy for a gaming build. If you have semi-decent headphones, you'll definitely hear the difference. And if you have good headphones, what are you still doing using onboard sound?!

All right, maybe you don't have headphones. Maybe you have a 5.1 setup you're already really happy with. Spend that $40 anyway and see if it makes an audible difference to you, and if it doesn't, you can always sell it to someone else. Budget sound cards don't depreciate in price very much, unlike brand-new premium graphics cards.

Monitor
Tell anyone in the know that you spent more than $2k on your PC build but don't have an IPS panel LCD, and they'll think you're really dumb. What's wrong with your run-of-the-mill cheap twisted-nematic (TN) LCD, you ask? Position your eyes about 45 degrees above your current monitor. Then 45 degrees below. Do you notice the colours 'washing out' or darkening? Or worse, even 'inverting', like photographic negatives? That, demonstrated graphically, is what's wrong with TN panels. Some may argue that, oh, they sit with proper posture all the time, so off-angle viewing isn't an issue for them. I don't know about you, but I like slouching in my chair every so often, and I don't see why I should get inferior display quality just because of that.

Better viewing angles aren't the only thing IPS monitors are good for. Desktop monitor IPS panels often have a much greater colour gamut, close to 100% sRGB. What does this mean for us consumers? sRGB (standard RGB) is the working colour space for just about 99.99% of things on the Internet*: video, images, PDFs, etc. This means that or instance, HD videos, not knowing anything about the monitors we use, assume that they are able to produce sRGB colours accurately. If an RGB colour of (255,0,0) is specified, it expects your monitor to produce a certain shade of red. And so on for all 16 million colours.

HDTV/HD video format actually follows BT.709. But the differences are minor enough that they're not worthwhile mentioning here.

The sad reality is that pretty much all bottom-budget LCD panels are TN, and cheap TN panels have abysmal gamut. Even the better TN panels have a gamut that is significantly less than 100% sRGB. So while the video is supposed to show this shade of red, or fuschia, or violet, or aquamarine, what actually comes out of your TN panel is something less saturated. If you've ever wondered why videos sometimes seem washed out on a cheap PC monitor, it could be the monitor's fault, not the video's. IPS monitors, on the other hand, typically have >95% sRGB gamut. If you ever get the chance to compare an IPS panel and TN panel side-by-side, you'll readily see the difference.

But don't IPS panels cost, like, more than twice their TN equivalents? Welcome to 2012, where that's no longer the case. 23" 1080p IPS monitors on Newegg start from around $205. Frequently recommended models, such as the Ultrasharp U2312HM, start somewhat higher at $260. The extra money buys you screen adjustability (rotate/tilt/height adjustment), more connection options, more even backlighting, and often better colour accuracy over lower-budget IPS offerings. Or for a little more, you can snatch a U2412M for $290, giving you 120px more vertical pixel space.

----------

Despite the wall of text, I've really only given a cursory overview of the options in each area, and I've done quite a poor job of explaining things clearly for the sake of brevity. Feel free to ask (me and/or Google) if you have questions about the above info. I'm on the IRC channel pretty often if you need quicker replies. (And if you need a faster response than that, I'm on Google Talk, kureshii[at]gmail[dot]com).

A better case may not be at the top of your priorities. But if this isn't just a one-time thing (and by the look of things it isn't), you're probably going to be poking inside your case pretty often. And if you do, you are going to want to get a really nice case that makes you smile at the thought of opening it up to adjust stuff, instead of one that you picked because it seems to be priced decently but is a pain to work around in.

The keyboard, sound card and monitor though, are really non-negotiable IMO. Just about everyone I've recommended these "new"* technologies to, have come back saying that it's eye-opening, life-changing and they will be compulsory components in future builds. Switching to them is like using a good screwdriver that doesn't keep slipping off the screw, is like taking out earplugs, is like wearing glasses for your myopia. Even if you end up not sticking with them (there are some valid reasons to do so), at least know these options exist and enjoy the experience of having used them. Because these are also purchases that will last you years down the road, probably even beyond your i5+Z77.

* Premium sound cards and IPS monitors have been around a long time now, and mechanical keyboards actually predate rubber domes! What's changed in recent years is their affordability.
« Last Edit: August 14, 2012, 03:35:42 AM by kureshii »

Offline Southrop

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Re: Building a new computer
« Reply #13 on: August 14, 2012, 05:49:57 AM »
Just casually splitting these posts away from the other thread as this is for a specific build.

By the way, wanted to toss my 2 cents into this thread because it looks to me you're (or were) just looking to pimp out a machine as far as you could go.

This is the rig that I've been assembling over the last week or so. I daresay it's on the high end of the mid-tier machines. Over all, it'll cost me about $1800-$1900. I expect this rig will serve me well for a number of years to come, and I doubt I'll need to upgrade it any time in the immediate future.

Just wanted to show you that a rig does not need to be fully pimped out to be 'future-proof'. The only thing that isn't really future-proof for me is my sound card, but I already own that card (not buying a new one for this PC), which is why I listed the Xonar DG rather than DGX. And maybe a lack of a BD drive, but that can be remedied when BD becomes more common in things other than PS3 games and movies (and anime).
« Last Edit: August 14, 2012, 06:30:05 AM by Southrop »

Offline Tephnos

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Re: Building a new computer
« Reply #14 on: August 14, 2012, 09:27:37 AM »
One thing to note with mechanical keyboards. Please don't use them in skype calls - you WILL annoy everyone.

Offline MalusSciurus

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Re: Building a new computer
« Reply #15 on: August 14, 2012, 01:34:16 PM »
Wow!  I totally didn't expect this much of a response to my computer build!  Thanks again everyone for all the suggestions and advice! 

@ Kureshii

I think the reason why I chose the Antec 900 was because I'm using it for my existing build and it really impressed me with the air cooling.  The 200mm fan on top was a total game changer for me when I got it.  Now that you've listed all these other cases I feel like a kid who just found out there's actually more than one kind of salt-water taffy! Anyways the RV03 does intrigue me with the ports facing upwards but I think the Corsair Obsidian 650D really impressed me with the ability to swap drives out so easily.  I think I'll be looking more into the cases although I'll probably not spend more than $200.

For the keyboards I'm not a fan of hearing the audible "click".  It reminds me too much of my old school typing class where I'm trying to beat some WPM game that I was forced to finish so I can get an "A".

Also I would love to get a sound card but I fear that my hearing is slowly getting worse... I had too many previous jobs of working near heavy industrial machinery with cruddy ear protection so I think I'll settle for the onboard sound card.

As for a monitor I do have a "TN" LCD but I bought a Asus 25" LED Backlight Monitor last Thanksgiving and plan on using it for a couple more years. 

Oh and I'm still looking for a CPU cooler with a low profile but that's hard to come by... I rather not have a giant block if possible... I took a look at the Cosair H80 liquid cooler but I have a feeling that would open up another can of worms...

Offline Southrop

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Re: Building a new computer
« Reply #16 on: August 14, 2012, 03:24:51 PM »
wall of text
Most newer Antec cases will have that 200mm top fan. My Eleven Hundred has one, as does the twelve hundred my flatmate has. Take a look at the product listings on Antec's website. It's worth noting that the large change in "simple-ness" in Antec cases can be attributed to Corsair's entry into the case market. Corsair's cases are supposedly really really simple and easy to assemble and have generally very good built in cable management. Worth considering imo, but most case manufacturers are taking inspiration from Corsair and implementing similar (if not the same) forms into their cases (Antec included).

Re: Corsair H60/80/100, they're all sealed all-in-one liquid coolers. You simply mount the radiator+fans onto a fan mount on your case, and attach the end of the tubes to your CPU/Mobo and it's all set! Well, that's the theory anyway. I've yet to put my PC together so I don't know if it's actually any more difficult :P

Offline kureshii

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Re: Building a new computer
« Reply #17 on: August 14, 2012, 04:27:58 PM »
Oh and I'm still looking for a CPU cooler with a low profile but that's hard to come by... I rather not have a giant block if possible... I took a look at the Cosair H80 liquid cooler but I have a feeling that would open up another can of worms...
How "low-profile" are we talking? My particular itch is in mini-ITX, so low-profile coolers are familiar ground to me. But by low-profile I mean air coolers with total height below 5cm (2"). The classics in this size range are the Scythe Big Shuriken 2 (more well-known) and Prolimatech Samuel 17 (less well-known). As you can tell from their diminutive size, cooling performance won't be in the same category as bigger tower coolers, but they're definitely wayyyy better than the stock cooler that comes with retail-box CPUs. And when paired with good case airflow, they can easily handle 77W/95W CPUs like the i5s and i7s.

If you're looking for something taller and a bit more "upmarket", the Noctua NH-L12 is a great pick. 9.3cm (3.7") tall including fan, awesome cooling performance when paired with a 120mm fan, and with typical Noctua attention to silence and quality. It's going at $72 on Newegg currently.

I should probably also mention that the Hyper212 Evo, though classified as a tower cooler, is by no means gigantic or massive, measuring only 16cm (6.3") tall and weighing less than 500g (1.1lb). It is unlikely to get in the way of your RAM or PCI-e slots.
« Last Edit: August 14, 2012, 04:41:30 PM by kureshii »

Offline Freedom Kira

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Re: Building a new computer
« Reply #18 on: August 14, 2012, 05:05:01 PM »
For the keyboards I'm not a fan of hearing the audible "click".  It reminds me too much of my old school typing class where I'm trying to beat some WPM game that I was forced to finish so I can get an "A".

On the other end of the spectrum, I have an ultra-slim, ultra-quiet keyboard, the Logitech 920-000914. I'm often up late at night, so a quiet, illuminated keyboard is very helpful in keeping the rest of the household asleep (though I don't usually need the illumination; it's just cool to have).

Just giving you more options in case you're more into the quiet ones.

Online kitamesume

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Re: Building a new computer
« Reply #19 on: August 15, 2012, 10:54:30 AM »
what kind of monstrous resolution will this "SLI GTX680 IMAOWTF" be used for? 7680x1440(triplah 2560x1440 monitor~) @ max settings + 3D ?
i mean, last time i checked a GTX 560 Ti can max 1920x1080 without FPS issues...

btw, with all that much money getting waved around why not grab a hexa-core and pair it up with a 8x8GB kit for a total awesome 50gb ram-disk + raid-1 >,> i mean, demn that awesome gbps read/write speed, just sayin...

for quiet keyboards, i've found that those roll-able rubber keyboards are the only ones that doesn't produce much sound at all, if not any.

PS: my wtb of the year -
Intel Core i5-3450 3.1-3.5Ghz (Quad Core) - i3 ain't holdin out on me anymore, feels sluggish.
lga1155 Asrock Z68 Pro3-M - i find it a beauty for the price.
Sapphire HD 7770 1GB 128bit GDDR5 - i can manage playing @ 30fps + 1080p if its stable at that FPS, my bench game is metro2033, and im currently using i3-2100+HD6570 @ 1650x1050 normal - smooth~
Asus Xonar DX PCIE Audio Card - i dunno, im ripped as to if i should grab DGX or this one, im using stereo+headphone.
G.Skill Ares (Dual) 2x8gb ddr3 1600 CL10 - my 2x4GB got saturated...
Corsair VX450w 80plus - demn efficient for its price, thats my only reason for it.
Cooler Master (RC-361-KKN1) Elite 361 - spacy slim, cheap, like.
-- these sums to about 750$ around my area, current savings? 100$... i'll keep on dreaming. --

PSS: i'd rather wait for haswell, and GTX 650 interests me...

Edit: i have no clue as to how much CPU cores/threads affects software physx performance, its worth a look-up for AMD users when it does scale well per core/thread count, which means an i7 or an 8core-BD will be a good combination with a HD7950, currently one of the most budget friendly cards that tops 2560x1440.
« Last Edit: August 15, 2012, 12:04:16 PM by kitamesume »

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