Do you absolutely have to use Newegg?
PcPartsPicker can help you find the best prices for pc components from a range of online stores including Amazon, NCIX, and Newegg.
Is it alright if I ask you what you're planning to use this build for? Why do you need 32GB of Ram, a Core i7 -k, or even an expensive motherboard? You're video editing right? Can you tell us what all you're going to do with this build including your screen resolution if you're gaming with it, too.
You shouldn't be buying HDDs from Newegg. Newegg don't package harddisk drives as they should, so the HDDs from them turn in higher than normal return rates.
You probably don't need super fast, super expensive hard drives anyway if you're using SSDs for your operating system and programs. Reds are cheaper and more reliable (when not from newegg), and they turn in good performance. Actually, Seagate and Toshiba have similar performing drives for the same price or less. As long as the drive is atleast 5400RPM with 16MB cache and uses SATAII or greater it should cover your needs nicely. You should also consider looking into a NAS solution for storage and/or backup.
Also, very important, do you have backup? It is recommended to have a onsite and offsite backup. So in this case, a NAS or external harddrive and an online backup. You should custom build your NAS for your onsite backup because it'll be cheaper and more customizable that way, but if you want something prebuilt with warranty and shit, a Diskstation DS212j, DS213j, DS413j, or a Drobo is recommended. For offsite, you can setup with Crashplan for cheap.
Is there a reason you're going with an Ultra tower? If it is cooling performance you want, the Corsair Carbide Air 540 punches outside its weight class and cools as well as the BlackHawk-Ultra at $30 less.
You want to make sure that your UPS outputs sine waves because if it doesn't it could damage your PSU or cause it function improperly. It is enterprise class, so there is a good chance it does.
Is there a reason you're going G.Skill SSDs? Also, I wouldn't recommend a 120GB for an OS drive if you're using Windows. You should just buy a 180Gb drives or larger for your OS drive and programs instead of a smaller and a larger drive. Maybe even try a 480GB or larger drive. Don't worry about write endurance; even if the drive is TLC, it can survive an incredibly long time, way past the upgrade point (5~7 years) at sizes 120GB and up. I'd recommend the SanDisk Extreme (I), Samsung 840, or Samsung 840 Evo at the 480~512GB or 240~256GB range.
If you want a speedier SSD, the Samsung 840 Pro and SanDisk Extreme II are both reliable, proven drives.
Avoid Crucial. Their firmware has a history of being shit, and for the most part, the firmware is one of the most important parts of a SSD. OCZ is not to be trusted either.
You should avoid internal addon soundcards for the most part. Onboard sound quality is pretty damn good lately especially with RealTek's higher offerings like the ALC1150 which the Hero has.
You should probably read
NwAvGuy's Blog and
In Ear Matters' Which Way's UP? Part 1 Part 2 and
To Amp, or not to Amp before deciding to buy any additional audio equipment. Also check out
Hyrdrogenaudio for more information.
The whole audiophile market is full of woo and snake oils that prey on people's ignorance and misconceptions to peddle overpriced junk. The above places are a great guide to help wad through the bullshit. Avoid places like Head-Fi; they're probably the biggest peddler of bullshit and nonsense.
If after reading that, you still want a amp/dac, try the
O2+ODAC for about $300 (including the fucking power cord). It is pretty much reference quality for a fraction of the cost.
Are you going to use the iGPU or do you have your graphic cards already bought? Your graphic cards determine your PSU in most cases. If you're just using the integrated graphics, Antec Green 380w is probably good enough for your needs. If you're going with a single card that uses only one PCIe connector, get a Rosewill Capstone 450w. If you need two connectors, any SeaSonic at 550w or higher should suffice. If you're going with SLI or Crossfire X 2-Way, you should get something at 750W or higher like a Rosewill Capstone or SeaSonic. In general, SeaSonic is pretty much the premier PSU developer, and they're pretty much always a good pick (though not always the best or smart pick).
Anyway, you should choose your PSU based on features (# of PCIe and Sata cables), reliability, price, and efficiency in that order. Most people don't need a 600w PSU let alone a 850w PSU; for the most part, as long as the PSU has the requisite amount of connectors and it comes from a reliable brand, you are good. Though, you should always look at reviews of the model you're interested it. Only Seasonic and Superflower PSUs should be bought on name alone. Here's a
list of generally recommended PSUs and their reviews. Here's a
list of shit you should run from. Both are slightly outdated, but they should cover your needs.
Also, unless you're overclocking, you don't need anything other than a 212 Evo (the stock cooler cools fine, but the Evo is quieter). Actually, unless you're overclocking, a -k processor is useless, and a Z87 is overkill and not needed. If you are overclocking, you should probably read
HardOCP's review of Haswell. In gist, the overclocking ability of your chip will be largely determined by luck of the draw. Haswell is a bad cpu to be trying to overclock overall. Anyway, even if you get a good chip, you'll need a high quality cpu cooler to get a decent overclock. And by decent CPU cooler, think Corsair H80i good. If you're going that route, the Kraken X60 is what I'll recommend. Or a H110.
What's your operating system? I forgot to ask? Do you have a Windows 7 64-bit license, are you trying to run a Hackintosh, Linux, or BSD? Are shopping around for a completely new Windows computer?
edit: grammar and shit and more questions
